Ceramic Coating

Many coatings rely on oils or additives to create an immediate hydrophobic effect that fades over time. The coatings we install take a different approach. Gtechniq builds its tiers around a genuine chemical bond to the paint, and Final Coat adds carbon nanotube technology on top of that bond, for lasting performance rather than impressive water behaviour on day one.

A coating is not a wax and it is not a sealant. It is a semi-permanent layer that resists chemical etching from bird droppings, tree sap and road salt, and repels water hard enough that most dirt leaves with the rinse rather than the wash mitt.

• Carbon nanotube technology and a true chemical bond to the paint
• Chemical resistance against sap, droppings and winter road salt
• Strong hydrophobic behaviour, so water sheets off rather than sitting
• UV resistance, so paint and trim fade more slowly
• Gloss that holds up over years rather than weeks

Every installation begins with proper surface preparation and paint correction where it is needed, because a coating locks in whatever the paint looks like when it is applied. The coating is then carefully applied to create a smooth, glass-like finish that enhances the appearance while making the vehicle easier to clean and maintain.

For us, ceramic coating is not about chasing the biggest water beads. It is about creating a better, longer-lasting surface.

The tiers are three different Gtechniq coatings, not three amounts of the same one. Bronze is rated for 18 months, Silver for five years and Gold for nine, so the choice comes down to how long you plan to keep the vehicle. Because a coating locks in whatever is underneath it, if your vehicle has swirl marks or light scratching, pair it with a polish stage.

STEK Final Coat is the other option: one coating, rated for three years and up. If the vehicle already has paint protection film, Final Coat is the one to use. It goes over the film, adding gloss and easier maintenance and extending the DYNOshield warranty to 12 years.

A coating changes how you wash rather than whether you wash. It can get wet the day it leaves the shop, but keep it to a plain rinse for the first 30 days: no soap, no detail spray and no other chemicals while it cures. After that, keep it off automatic washes for good. The brushes put in the swirls the coating is there to prevent.

The hydrophobic behaviour is also your maintenance indicator. When water stops beading and starts sitting flat, the surface is loaded with road film and wants a proper wash, not a top-up product.

• Rinse only for the first 30 days: no soap, detail spray or other chemicals while it cures
• Hand wash with a pH-neutral, wax-free soap every two to three weeks
• Skip wax and sealants, which sit on top and mask the coating
• Water sitting flat instead of beading means it needs a wash
• Book a decontamination wash yearly to keep the top layer working